CRGE? What's this about? I couldn't find a post related to the question been asked.

 

I followed your instructions and no leaks for over a month. The leak had just started but it was a bad leak. Hope it holds for few years now.
Thanks.
I used JB weild and also used a rust remover

 

when the vehicle CEL is warning you that the there is a speed sensor malfunction,it is then up to the technician to determine if the sensor is bad or there is a wiring problem.it is very unlikely for both the speed sensor and the instrument panel to go bad at the same time.I've been working on Toyotas for many years and I have yet to see both of these components to go bad at the same time.I suggest that you take your vehicle to your Toyota dealership and have it diagnosed by someone who knows what he is doing,and that has the equipment to make the right diagnosis.good luck.

 

I also had pin holes in my rear axle housing. I had estimates up to 2k to replace so I took the project on myself to repair. First, I replaced the breather plug, it was closed and would not allow pressure to bleed out of the rear axle housing. Next I removed all rust from the rear axle housing cover and nearby areas, then removed the fill plug and then drained the gear oil. Next I cleaned the area with soap and then burned off all organics materials with a torch and then repeated the cleaning process 2x. Once completed with cleaning, I replaced the drain plug, using new washers. I then coating the rear axle cover with JB Weld and allow the epoxy to cure for 24 hours. Finally, refilled the gear box with new oil. Replaced the fill plug, with new washers. It has been a couple of months now and it has held up. I will definitely inspect the breather plug yearly to make sure it is not plugged. I may even extend breather plug using tubing. I have photos I will try to post.

 

Last year I had to spend $2400 to replace rear end differential in 2000 4Runner. It had rusted through and oil dripping on ground. This year the frame was so rusted in one spot that it would not pass inspection. This time it cost me $1900. Has there been a recall on any of this stuff???

PO'd in Maine

 

I did the Epoxy route and so far so good, I brought it to my mechanic and he drained the diff oil and sanded down the rusted part......applied marine grade epoxy and let it cure for at least 24hrs.....then applied paint over it....cost 100bucks......I was not willing to spend thousands on a 12yrold truck..........if it happens again....I will have him do the weld route.....it sucks but it is what it is.

 

YOU HAVE TO HAVE A WORKING BREATHER !!

None of the repars will work if you don't have a working breather. Even the small pressure increase from warm up will push oil right through quickly. As far as welding goes, don't bother. Even if you can successfully weld this now very thin metal, you will just discover new holes that were almost leaking already. I wasted countless hours with this two years ago (see page 2) and all fixes failed, untill I made the breather start doing it's job. After fixing the breather, all that was needed to stop the leaking was a little RTV squished into the well cleaned holes. Cost for final solution was 2 cents worth of RTV, a little carb cleaner and some elbow grease. Sorry I couldn't have help some of you earlier, but I did post the breather issue back on page 2. Oh and if anybody cares my frame is rotted really bad too. Haven't come up with a cheap solution for that yet, so feel free to add your 2 cents worth.

 

Hello!!!!!!! Good post!!!!!!!!!

 

Hi Mark - Had the same problem. Cleaned the differental, removed rust and used JB COld Weld.Has held for over one year. Got the idea from previous post. Worked great and better than the alternative of installing a new or used rear axle.

 

Hello!!!!!! Good post!!!!!!